Guerlain - Shalimar Eau De Parfum : A century old and yet so young | Perfume Review.

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 Guerlain - Shalimar Eau De Parfum.


A perfume born out of a love story and loved since the day it was introduced. A timeless classic, benchmark oriental, a surprise to the nose and delight to the senses. In 1921, Master Perfumer Jacques Guerlain, the nose behind Shalimar created it while drawing inspiration from the famous love story of Shahjahan and Mumtaz naming it after the garden 'Shalimar'. It's neither an easy perfume nor a clean one, especially the opening of the perfume which is a little robust, uneasy and not pleasing but I've been told that it's better than the vintage versions, because the vintage versions are even stronger. 

The opening of oranges, civet and leather can be a bit off putting while opoponax adds a heavy dose of balsamic character. The initial 15 minutes to my nose were very challenging but what comes next is what the scent is glorified for and for all the right reasons. 

Once I got past the 15-20 minutes start, Iris came to the rescue along with Jasmine, which is extremely rich and gorgeous. The most important part of this transition is the Vanilla, the divine Vanilla which has been mastered by the perfumers of Guerlain to a point where the Raw Vanilla Buds themselves feel incomplete if not touched by a Guerlain or their successor. From this point on, many notes come and for a harmonious bond with Vanilla. In this phase the other evident notes are the civet and the balsamic notes which along with the floral and vanilla make the perfume feel animalic yet powdery. It’s the kind of powdery that gives an image of this being worn by an old Lady which might steer you away from the perfume but I suggest you stay there and let it amaze you. The perfume sure is challenging but, to think of it, this was made in 1921, someone at that time could think of an oriental perfume which is loud and soft both at the same time. 

The dry down is where everything comes to a state of rest. The final stage gives a very soft and warm vanilla with Tonka which kind of adds beauty to the vanilla and also completes it. Incense, balsamic and sandalwood also form an important part of the dry down. The dry down stays for a long time, overall the perfume itself stays for a very long time and if experienced patiently it is as good as its said to be. 

Everything said and done, this still does not come to me as a perfume that a lady would wear considering the times it comes from. It’s not a Lady-like perfume, Shalimar's start tells a different tale as compared to its end, and it starts very wild, untamed and free spirited. This is a perfume for someone fierce, strong willed and someone who appreciates the beauty, its cost in terms of time and is ready to pay for it. It must have been more than just a perfume back then, it most definitely, A statement.

 

        Notes:-

• Top:- Bergamot, Cedar, Orange, Lemon
• Middle:- Iris, Patchouli, Jasmine, Rose, Vetiver
•Base: - Leather, Sandalwood, Opoponax Musk,Civet, Vanilla, Incense,Tonka.

 

        Perfume Family:- Spicy and Oriental.  

        Performance:-

Lasting: 9/10
Projection: 7/10
Silage:  9/10

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